Busting the essential-oil myth

Did you know that essential oils are not actually oils at all? They are complex mixtures of as many as 100+ plant-derived volatile organic compounds — phenols, ketones, terpineols and others — which, like oils, don't mix with water. Hence the (scientifically incorrect) 'oil' terminology. The 'essential' part of their name is derived from the word 'essence' and refers to the pungent fragrance these extracts possess. Tea tree, lavender, menthol, oregano, geranium and other essential oils all have very characteristic aromas. Essential oils are derived from natural sources but are extracted from plants by synthetic processes. The finished products they end up in are not, in fact, natural, and often contain additional synthetic solvents required to fully dissolve the essential oils.

In nature, the VOCs in essential oils protect plants against predators and microbes. They are toxic substances. At very high concentrations relative to what can feasibly be applied to the nail, essential oils have been shown in a limited number of lab tests to possess some antifungal and antibacterial properties (replicating their biological function in nature); hence their use in products with 'antimicrobial' claims, including some products for nails. No appropriately controlled clinical trial has ever demonstrated the efficacy of essential oils for nail health in general, or for onychomycosis. Essential oils are also toxic to human cells at antimicrobial concentrations (as any VOC would be!). The concentrations of essential oils that are safe to apply in topical nail products will not be high enough to kill fungi. They also won't improve the condition or hydration status of nails — quite the opposite. Essential oils are not nail- or skin-friendly and can be as dehydrating and irritating as the solvents in nail products containing synthetic antifungal compounds.

Essential oils may provide some temporary surface sterilisation to the toenail (as other VOCs would), but at the same time may cause irritation to the surrounding skin. Always be mindful of the chemistry of essential oils. They might be plant-derived but are still only mixtures of volatile organic compounds…

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